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5.1 Location

The following steps need to be taken for determining the location for your water filter installation:

1.   Determine where you will locate your water filter or water softener.

The ideal place for your installation is an out of the way location on a hard, level surface.  A distance of at least 8 feet of pipe between the outlet of the filter to the inlet of the water heater is required.
Note 1: If the distance of pipe between the filter outlet and your hot water heater inlet is less than 8 feet, you need to place a check valve in line to prevent backflow of water. A backflow preventer with an intermediate atmospheric vent conforming to the American Society of Sanitary Engineering (ASSE) Standard 1012 or a reduced pressure principle backflow preventer conforming to ASSE 1013 shall be installed in the water supply to the plumbing product. In Wisconsin, plumbing plan approval must be obtained before the installation of reduced pressure principle backflow preventers.
Note 2: If a check valve is required, an expansion tank must be installed between the check valve and water heater.
    Notes 1 & 2 mean make sure you have at least 8 feet of pipe between your water filter and hot water heater, not to be 8 feet apart. This will save you a few dollars of special valves or expansion tanks. The only real draw back is that you will need to purchase an extra 8 to 10 feet of pipe and a few extra 90 degree elbows.

    If you have determined that more than one filter is needed or you are also installing a water softener, make floor space for it also. Poor planning will create additional work for you later.
Never install water filtration equipment where the temperatures are below 32 degrees F (0 degrees C) or more than 122 degrees F (50 degrees C).
Do not install this equipment near acids or acid fumes.
  Do not put this equipment where children, pets, or small animals can tamper with the filter, or filter lines. When installing the iron & sulfur filter, prevent access to the Potassium Permanganate container. Potassium Permanganate is a deadly poison.

2.   Determine where you will get electrical power to operate your water filter controller.
WARNING: Electrical Power Can Kill or Maim.

  An electrical outlet with 120 volts A.C. fused with a 15 Amp fuse or breaker is recommended to plug the servo motor that controls your water filtration equipment.  If power is not available, you will have a small side project of adding an outlet near your installation. These systems use very little electric current. Pulling electric power from an outlet within the vicinity of your installation is typically not a problem.
All local and state codes on electrical wiring apply. Typically in most states, a homeowner can do the wiring himself provided he does it according to local code.  A building permit to do any wiring may also be required in some major cites and municipalities.
Electrical power can kill. Before attempting to do any wiring, find out how to do it before attempting to wing it. There are several basic electrical wiring books available on how to do this. An additional source of information would be National Fire Prevention Association #70, also known as the National Electric Code (NEC).
  If you are doing the wiring yourself, ensure you shut off the power to the outlet you are tapping into before hooking an additional outlet up. It is also a good idea check the voltage on your outlet. If you do not have a volt meter, you can use a circuit tester. These are inexpensive and in actuality are a neon bulb with leads. Another alternative is to plug a small electric lamp into the outlet and try the outlet before plugging power to your water filtration unit to see if you errored in wiring.

3.   Ensure you have a drain available. If not, you will probably need to put one in.

  A drain for the water used during the regeneration process and chemical tank or brine tank overflow is needed. Because Potassium Permanganate, the chemical used to regenerate a iron & sulfur filter is a poison, filter regeneration water cannot be discharged to the open ground, open tanks, or any where other than a sanitary drainage system(I.E. a city sewer or to a septic tank).
Place the Potassium Permanganate holding tank where a drain is available. You will need to put an overflow hose from the potassium Permanganate solution tank to a drain in case of an overflow.
The drain must be capable of carrying the the maximum flow rate of your specific water softener. The drain can be either a regular floor drain, utility drain (I.E. Washing machine tub), or a stand pipe. An air gap to break siphon action is also required.  Most water softener & water filter provide drain line sizing information along with the equipment.

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5.2 Installation

1. Acquire the needed tools and materials to do the installation. Refer to the tool list and material list.
2. Precut your pipes and try fitting them together before soldering.
Tip 1: When installing your filter, water softener, valves, etc., make sure everything is plumbed correctly. Most filters, water softeners, and valves are marked with arrows cast right in the parts to show the direction of water through the system starting from the raw water source and pointing to the rest of the plumbing in the house.
Tip 2: Try fitting all your piping together as you go so it goes together without binding. Make sure all the pipes except for the last two pipes you need to hook up to your intended break in the water line. File off any burrs that develop from cutting the pipe.
3. Clean your copper pipe fittings well. Your fittings should be clean, shiny, and free of dirt and oxidation.
Tip 3: Use of a fine grade emery cloth or sand paper works well, however, don’t use a medium or course grade of sandpaper (greater than 100 grit). It may rough up the material to a point where it won’t slide together well during assembly.
4. Make sure the water is turned off. This is the most obvious step to your installation, the most important, and sometimes the hardest to do if your main water valve is old and leaks.
5. Once you have your pipes precut, you are ready to flux the joints and solder them. The process of soldering and wiping excess solder from copper pipes is also know as sweating the joints.

Warning: USE OF PROPANE TORCHES CAN CAUSE FIRE OR EXPLOSIONS.

Use proper care and follow manufacturers instructions on use and safety when using.
Propane torches generate heat from an open flame. Use extreme care to keep all flammable materials away from the open flame and hot parts.
Keep a portable fire extinguisher available in your work area in the event of fire. Ensure your fire extinguisher is rated for all materials capable of starting fire in your installation area.
Use a thermal barrier (either fiberglass mat or wood stove underlayment) where needed.

 

Flux is typically in a wax state. Apply flux so a thin coat is on the outside of the pipe and inside the joint to be soldered.
Tip 4: Flux only needs to be applied to the areas where you want solder.
Tip 5: Because it takes a lot of heat to get valves soldered, be sure to take any seals or valve handles out of the valves before soldering. The valve won’t be any good to you if the seals are all warped and leak.
Tip 6: Do not solder directly on your control valve/filtration tank. Heat will damage the unit. Instead, remove the inlet and outlet brass nuts found of the filtration unit and solder on a section of pipe for an extension.  A minimum of 5 inches is typically recommended.
6. Apply heat to the joints, one at a time. Once you see the flux activated, apply solder. When flux is activated, it will cause the color of the copper to change from a shiny copper to a salmon pink color. At this point the copper is free from contaminations as will allow the solder to “wet”. Wetting refers to the way solder coats the copper as if it were dipped into a liquid and got wet.
Tip 7: Solder flows toward heat. When soldering, apply heat to the thickest part of a fitting. When soldering elbows, heating the outside corner works well.
Tip 8: If you do not have any experience at soldering, it would be worth your effort to purchase a few additional fittings and additional pipe and practice soldering. In most cases you will be able to solder the joint. However, a little practice before you attempt to do your project may mean the difference between getting it right the first time or doing it over. I strongly recommend soldering as many fittings to pipe sections in an open area. Use a thermal barrier (either a  fiberglass mat or wood stove underlayment) when soldering near flammable materials. (I.E. Studs in walls & floor joists)
Tip 9: Start your project so if you do run out parts or have a problem, there is still time to get to a hardware store to get the needed parts.
7. After the solder has wicked around the entire joint, excess solder is wiped from around the joint with a damp rag. Allow the joint time to cool down before attempting to solder the next joint. This will keep the total amount of heat down on a specific joint so you don’t get it to hot. If to hot, when the joint you are soldering finally flows, the last joint you soldered could slides down or fall off.
8. The first items soldered are typically the pipe fittings that come with the water filtering system. Take the fittings off (and take any rubber, nylon, or plastic off the fittings), assemble the initial pipe sections to them, flux, and solder. Keep soldering the parts together until you are ready to cut into the water line.
9. In most cases, the most difficult part of an iron filter or water oftener installation is tapping into the water line. Perform the following:

a.) Ensure water is turned off.(If you have a well, turn of your pump.

b.) Open the faucets to relieve pressure in the water lines. This will also allow the water to drain to the lowest point in the plumbing.